Caporciano is a small village, just two hundred inhabitants, stone houses gathered at an altitude of 836 metres, overlooking the vast Navelli plain like a natural balcony. Here the silence tells of castles, monasteries, medieval wars and a faith that has left extraordinary traces among the rocks and fields.
Strolling through the alleyways of Caporciano
Caporciano is a town of medieval origin, born in a dominant, strategic position, as if to control every movement in the valley below. But its ancient heart also beats not far away, in the hamlet of Bominaco, the most remote and evocative nucleus, where already in the 11th century a castle stood guard over the territory. In 1254, Caporciano and Bominaco contributed to the foundation of L'Aquila, a choice that cost them the devastating attack by Braccio da Montone during the L'Aquila War. After that siege, the castle was partly destroyed and abandoned, and the monastic complex of Santa Maria Assunta itself was downsized. In Caporciano, the ancient castle was turned into a parish church and the tower became a bell tower: a sign of a community that knew how to reinvent its wounds.
Walking between the two villages today, one can still perceive their medieval imprint, which has remained intact thanks to their impervious position that has protected them from major urban upheavals. The modernisation of the provincial road in 2012 has made this hidden corner of Abruzzo more accessible, reopening a dialogue between the village and the valley.
But what makes Caporciano and Bominaco an extraordinary destination is their artistic heritage, capable of surprising even the most experienced visitor. In the centre of Caporciano, the church of San Pietro, founded in the 13th century, houses a precious ciborium and 16th-century frescoes that speak of a refined devotion, far from the idea of an isolated Middle Ages. In Bominaco, on the other hand, one enters a true treasure chest of art. The Oratory of San Pellegrino, rebuilt in the second half of the 13th century by Abbot Teodino and re-consecrated in 1263, presents itself on the outside with sobriety, almost shy. But it is enough to cross the threshold to be left breathless: the interior is entirely covered by a cycle of 13th-century frescoes, considered one of the greatest masterpieces of Romanesque-Gothic Abruzzo. The Stories of the Infancy and Passion of Christ, the Life of Mary, the still intense colours covering the walls and vaults transform the small chapel into a true “Sistine Chapel” of Abruzzo, immersed in the silence of the plateau.
Just above, the remains of Bominaco Castle tell of the military might of the past: a trapezoidal enclosure punctuated by square towers, dominated by an imposing cylindrical tower with a scarp base that still towers over the valley. From up there, the view runs free over the Piana di Navelli, between cultivated fields and wide horizons, and one understands why this place was so coveted and disputed.
In the territory of Caporciano there is also another fascinating, isolated and solemn presence: the church of Santa Maria de’ Centurelli, built in the 16th century at a strategic point along the crossroads between the L'Aquila-Foggia sheep-track and the Centurelli-Montesecco sheep-track. It was a resting place for shepherds and pilgrims, a crossroads for men and flocks, a symbol of that Abruzzo crossed by transhumance. The portal of 1558, simple and powerful, recalls essential Romanesque forms, almost as if it wanted to dialogue with the bareness of the surrounding landscape.
Caporciano is not a town that imposes itself with great numbers or clamour. It is a place that reveals itself slowly, amid ancient stones, deep silences and unexpected treasures hidden behind austere facades. Here, history is not a museum tale, but a concrete presence; art is not a crowd, but contemplation; and the valley, with its wide light and changing colours, accompanies every step like a natural setting unchanged over the centuries. Visiting Caporciano and Bominaco means entering a cosy and authentic dimension, where the most intimate Abruzzo continues to guard, almost in secret, some of its most precious masterpieces.
Agriristoro Le Origini is a restaurant located in Bominaco (a hamlet of Caporciano, AQ), set within the abbey complex of Santa Maria Assunta. It offers the most authentic Abruzzese cuisine: that passed down from generation to generation, prepared daily with zero-kilometre ingredients by chef Letizia and her family. A place where…
View moreA short path leads in about 15 minutes to the top of a hill to the north-west of Bominaco, where the narrow entrance to a consecrated grotto opens among the rocks. Inside, the semi-darkness highlights a golden stone altar, illuminated by a large natural window, while the cave, long...
View moreThe Abbey of Bominaco, nestled in the heart of Abruzzo, preserves precious evidence of Benedictine monastic life and its cultural and religious role. The abbey church of S. Maria Assunta, built between the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th century, shows an elegant fusion of styles: the sober and monumental façade, the apses...
View moreThe Oratory of San Pellegrino in Bominaco represents one of the most extraordinary treasures of the Abruzzi Middle Ages, both for its architecture and, above all, for the richness of its interior paintings. Located a short distance from the church of Santa Maria Assunta, it was originally an integral part of the abbey complex, as confirmed by documents attributing...
View moreThe Caporciano Castle, also known as the fortified enclosure of the village, dominates the hill at an altitude of about 850 metres, offering a spectacular view of the plateau and the Gran Sasso, Maiella and Sirente mountain ranges. The earliest records date back to the 12th century, when the village and castle...
View moreIn the 16th century, the church of S. Maria dei Centurelli was built along the transhumance sheep-tracks, at a strategic point where the route forked. The church took the place of a smaller chapel of the “Brothers of the Belt” and was completed in 1561, probably following a miracle that occurred...
View moreThe Chiesetta di San Pietro a Caporciano is a small rural jewel located just outside the village, with a panoramic view of the Navelli plain. Dating back to the medieval period, it preserves intact the typical appearance of Abruzzo's rural churches. The structure, built of exposed local stone, has a simple façade with a...
View moreThe Church of San Benedetto Abate dominates the village of Caporciano from above and is the community's main religious building. Built in the 16th century, it represents a harmonious example of transition between Renaissance style, evident in the portal dated 1554, and neoclassical elements introduced in the interior renovations. The sober gabled façade...
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Starting from Barisciano, we cross an area rich in historical stratifications, reaching Prata d'Ansidonia and the archaeological area of Peltuinum. The climb towards Bominaco leads to the Oratory of San Pellegrino.
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A large cycling tourism loop of over 140 km through 15 villages. Cycling through the plateaus, valleys and villages of the Abruzzo Apennines allows you to observe the territory with an attentive look at the people who inhabit it. Along the route you meet local realities and inhabitants who share experiences and stories. The...
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The Agrippa family, custodians over the centuries of history and memory, now opens the doors of its palace to offer an authentic experience of culture, hospitality and emotion.
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Our completely renovated facility welcomes guests as if they were at home, offering comfortable rooms with private bathroom and elegant common areas. Nestled in the picturesque inland areas of Abruzzo, it is the perfect base for excursions, cycling and walks in the surrounding nature. The large storage area for bicycles and motorbikes and the...
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The Regio Tratturo B&B in Caporciano welcomes guests to a peaceful refuge amid nature and history. The warm and comfortable rooms offer an authentic stay immersed in the views of the Abruzzo mountains. Every morning starts with a genuine breakfast, inspired by the flavours of the territory, ready to give you energy for...
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Staying at Palazzo D'Alessandro means immersing yourself in the history and art of a unique period residence, part of the A.D.S.I. circuit of Italian historical residences. Between elegant rooms and refined details, each room tells family stories through furnishings, works of art and decorations from the past to the present. The property combines the charm...
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